Tuesday, 2 October 2012

Frankenjura 2012

A few days after coming back from Paris, it was time for a serious holiday trip with Stew. After deciding that south France was still to warm we made a wise choice to go to Frankenjura instead. I really love it there. The possibilities are endless and sometimes we spent hours locking at various guidebooks to suss out the climbing area for the next day. The weather and conditions were perfect for climbing, with fairly chilly temps and always a light pries. My greatest achievement in the trip was sending Odins tafel 8b and climbing SMS 8a+ second go. However I tried a few other routes I wouldn’t mind going back to. Beside climbing the mountain biking in Frankenjura was fabulous and I can’t wait to go on some new tours across the forests.

Tuesday, 18 September 2012


After my „schwarzer Schwann“ I spent less time on the rock and more time in the Boulderroom again. August was pretty busy with work and guiding for the “Ötztal Klettercamp”, which was held for the 4 time in our beautiful valley. It is always a nice experience placing yourself in a different role. Sometimes it feels hard explaining something that’s so obvious and normal for you. On the other hand seeing the improvements on the end of the camp, makes you feel a little proud. 

Following this I went to the “Adidas Rockstars” event in Stuttart. I was exited and pleased to be invited to this amazing event again. This is for sure one of the coolest comps in the season. Qualifikations went well for me and I felt pleased with my performance, even if I felt a bit nervous. The second day did not go so well and I was finding it difficult to get in the real fighting mode. However my big goal was Paris this year, therefore I gathered a lot of ideas what I need to improve to perform better.

Two weeks later was Munich. I managed to get really fit again indoors. However the competition ended up a bit unlucky for my by only coming 21st but I gave my best and I think I could not done it much better. Opposite to me Stew was super strong and even qualified for the finals and ended up in a little disappointing 6th position. 

After Munich Stew, my sister Kathi and I went for an extended weekend back to the UK, that I can to some extra training indoors for Paris and to catch up with Stews family. A week later it was time for Paris, I felt prepared and ready to go. My competition went not well at all. Once again I did not get in the right mood and before realizing it the competition was over and I finished 29th. The rest of our team performed really well and I am happy to be part of it. Babsy especially had the competition of her life coming 9th in leading and just missing out on the final in bouldering (8th).
Next stop Frankenjura!!

Sunday, 22 July 2012

Schwarzer Schwan 8c

Back in 2009 Markus Haid discovered and climbed the route ‘Schwarzer Schwan’ in Ötztal.

Fast forward to 2012 and the route had built up a reputation as a classic in Tirol. I was in search of a challenge close to home that I could really push myself on and was recommended to give the route a go. I teamed up with my sister, Babsy, in May and we started to project the route. The name of the route started to remind me of the classic film 'Black Swan' as we started to get more involved. We attempted the route in all different conditions, had constant battles with split tips and dreamt of the route on rest days. As we started to get very close, nerves sometimes got the better of us and frustration often set in.

A break in the hot weather and a spontaneous visit to the route in the middle of a thunderstorm allowed Babsy to climb it. She was relieved that the battle was over and her ascent urged me on even more. I visited the route a few more times but to no avail until one day I woke up to misty and rainy morning. I looked out the window and questioned whether the route was dry. My other sister, Kathi, encouraged me to have a go and the all so familiar nerves set in. We walked through the damp forest up the overhanging granite wall and I made a really good attempt, falling on the tricky moves after the crux. I was pleased with my effort and had already accepted defeat for that day but I had a feeling deep down that I should give it just one more attempt. After a serial moment I climbed the ‘Schwarzer Schwan’ and the feeling of relief and happiness were indescribable.

Friday, 20 July 2012

Ötztal Video

The new Ötztal Image video is finished. Good job Hannes Mair

Monday, 28 May 2012

Tanz der Molekühle- Lechtal

On Friday and Saturday Stew and I went to a secret crag in Lechtal. Unfortunetly one whole part of the wall was still completely wet, so there was only one route left for me to try called “Tanz der Molekühle 8b/+”. These was one of the nicest route I ever been on. After bouldering  it up the first time I knew that eventually I would be able to climb this line, because it was completely my style. After checking it out a second time we headed back to the car for the night. On Saturday morning we were back and after a really cold warm up my first go already went well and I could climb past the crux. On my second go of the day I clombed the route meaning that I only needed 4 attempts in total. I am so happy and this was an awesome start in the outdoor season. Photos will follow later....

Wednesday, 23 May 2012

Boulder Woldcup Innsbruck

Innsbruck was the third world cup stop for me. It was strange, but I felt more nervous than usual. So close to home you just want to climb well. The audience was great in Innsbruck, already for the qualification round there were lots of people supporting you on the way to the top. Qualification and Semi-finals went well for me; I was especially proud to keep my nerves and performed my best. However in the Semi-final I fall off the top hold on boulder number 2 which was disappointing and the reason why I finished only 17th and not a more deserved better position. The disappointment did not last too long, because I was so happy to hear that Stew qualified for the finals and I really enjoyed watching and shouting for him, in this awesome atmosphere. 
 I am kind of sad that there is a competition break now until August for me, but on the otherside I am happy to have more time to climb on the rock again.

Wednesday, 9 May 2012

Log Dragomer and Vienna

Time goes fast and 2 World Cups already past. This year I prepared differently than previous years, thanks to the help from Reini Scherer who provided me with really good trainings methods. Also Stew was from great help, who pushing me in my training and for setting some amazing problems. This paid off and I feel more confident in me and my climbing. In the Log Dragomer I climbed well and enjoyed it, without feeling too excited and nervous. However on 2 out of 5 problems in the Quali I climbed to the last move but was not able to catch the top. I finished 27th overall. Obviously I felt disappointed but knew that I was strong enough to get into Semis. 
A week later was the World Cup in Vienna. Qualification went well except that I sticked a hard dyno 2nd go but fall off to the top and until the last minute I could not to the dyno again. Therefore I needed more attempts and only just qualified for the Semifinal. The Semifinal was extremely hard and I only collected 1 Bonus. I finished with 6 others on place 15. Somehow felt alright about my performance but deep inside I knew that there would have been more. 
Next week is Innsbruck which is the last World Cup for me until end of August in Munich. I am looking forward to try my best and give everything. VENGA

Monday, 23 April 2012

Austrian Championship in Kitzbühl

The Austrian Championship in Kitzbühl was once more an amazing event. The competitor field was huge with all the top Boulderers from Austria, except from Anna Stöhr and Jakob Schubert who competed in the Boulder-Worldcup in China. 
The qualification went well for me, even if i am not a great fan of the "jam" modus. I was able to climb all blocs in slightly less attemps than Kathi Posch and qualified 1st for the finals. The final problems were great, really nice to climb but unfortunally they were a bit too easy. Katha Saurwein (1st) was the only girl in the final which flashed all 4 problems. Kathi (2nd), me (3rd) and Babsy (4th) had a tied race and climed all the 4 final problems in 5 goes. 
By the guys the final was dominated by Kilian Fischhuber (1st) who flashed 3 of the final blocs. The race was a bit tieder between Christian Feistmantel and Lukas Ennemoser with  both flashing one problem, although Christan got one more bonus hold and therefore finished 2nd before Lu.

Tuesday, 27 March 2012


The preparation for the upcoming world cups been going according to plan. Like always in this preparation phase I went through a few ups and downs. Now I am really looking forward to the season, I currently giving some fine tuning to my training and try to work on some weaknesses. April is coming close and the start is going to be the Austrian Championship on 14th of April, followed by two Boulder World Cups, one in Log Dragomer 21st und 22nd of April and the next one in Vienna 27th and 28th April.