Tuesday, 30 September 2008

11 days in England

From the 18 th to the 29 th of September Stew and I went back to England to do some training for the European Championship. Saturday we went to the British Team Training. It felt strange to be put back into a Comp situatuion, but on the other side it was very useful. On Sunday we decided to have a easy cimbing day and we went to Stanage Trad climbing-the first time ever in my life. I totally enjoyed it and I was less scared than I expected.Monday we went to Manchester wall and did a competition based training, were we tried to flash as many prblems as possible. Tuesday was a rest day with a light run. On Wednesday we went route climbing to Rubicon. I tried lots of different hard routes and come really close to an 8a but my tips gone really bad and I had to leave the decent. On Thursday we went for an other competition training to the Climbing works in Sheffield where we met lots of friends and had a massive session. Friday was another rest day with a relaxing Yoga session. Than on Satuday I was ready for an other training day but this time without Stew because he had a cold. I went to Stockport climbing wall a ferly new place in Manchester where i upsolved another competition training. Sunday was a beautiful day and we went route climbing to cheedale. I warmed up on some classics and then got stuck on a 8a that which felt very powerful on tiny crimps and small foothold. On my 4 th try I was so close, climbed already the hard sequences but then messed up the last harder move.
I really enjoyed the trip and it felt nice to switch off from working life back home. i especially liked the compination of having a indoor training session followed by an outdoor climbing day. I think i feel ready for Paris now.

Tuesday, 9 September 2008

Dynamischer Exorxist 8a+

Today I climbed "Dynamischer Exorcist 8a+" in Astlehn (Oetztal). It felt quite hard for me to do it because their is no flow in the route. There are always hard sequences, where a lot of body tension and control is needed, separated by semi good rests. The first bit is quite pumpy than comes a goodish rest followed by a boulder problem and to finish it off it goes into technical-vertical climbing on the end and that all on 18 meter. I was pleased that i climbed it after just a few goes.

Monday, 1 September 2008


On the weekend Stew and I were in Zillertal- finally getting on some boulders again. First stop was Magic places. Conditions were quite bad (way too hot) so we were just warming up on some easy blocs. I climbed Big Spender 7b and then we moved on to an area called Weer. There the boulders were hard with a high quality rock. I managed to climb a boulder called Dr. Green Dump 7c (very technical) and a 7b. On the second day we went to Zillergrund. Conditions were even worse than on Saturday and I just climbed a few easier problems and did not climb anything hard but on the end of the day the skin was still trashed.