Thursday, 2 September 2010

From Arco to England

On the weekend Stew, Mart and I went to Arco to escape from the rainy Austria. It ended up being too hot to climb but the pizza was great. Back home after a long day of painting a roof Kathi, Stew, Mart and I were off to England. We were really lucky with the weather and had a few awesome days on the rock. However the training for the European Championship was still Stew’s and mine priority. We visited a few of the big bouldering walls to climb some set problems. It’s amazing how much you climb when every problem is new to you. The well earned rest days Kathi and I spent shopping and in Manchester. The week was so quickly over and without realising it Kathi, Stew and I were in the plane back home.

Monday, 2 August 2010

7th WorldCup in Munich


On the Weekend the last World Cup event was held in Munich. After Arco I especially tried to work on some weaknesses and already felt the improvement. In Munich I was confident but exited; because it was the last competition and I wanted to perform well. In the qualification round I flashed problem 1 which was not easy, but unfortunately problem 2 I misread the starting sequence and in my last attempt I got it right but on the top hold I run out of time and the top did not count anymore. The last 3 problem were too hard to make up my mistakes and therefore I was 1 problem to short to qualify for the semifinal and finished in a disappointing 22nd place. Resume´ from this year´s Worldcup season: lots of training, 7 competitions and only 3 semis (place 16th 2x and 19th), 4 times not qualified for the semifinal (22, 25, 27, 30), overall worldcup ranking position 21st,1 injury (from Sheffield) and a lot of traveling. What to improve for next year: miss out on the comps in America (jet lag, to stressful), train more awkward reachy moves (otherwise training seemed to worked for Stew, 6th overall!!), and try not to think too much all the time (over psyched). However, in the meantime I am enjoying the rock and to get pumped, before I prepare myself for the European Championship mid September.

Tuesday, 27 July 2010

Arco Rockmaster 2010 and World Championship Pre Event


This was the hardest competition so far this year. The girls had to climb very early it was super hot and the problems were mega hard. Between climbing, watching the men boulder and the leading competition the hotel pool and Marco´s ice cream was the only way to survive the head. I finished 10th which was my best competition result so far this year.

Monday, 5 July 2010

6th BWC in Sheffield

The BWC was part of an outdoor festival called Cliffhanger which was located in the Millhouses Park in Sheffield. Beside other competitions the Boulder Woldcup was one of the biggest attractions and the walls were mounted inside a big circus tent. The competition started on Saturday with long, long waiting hours (up to 5 hours) for the girls in the isolation (THE CLIMING WORKS!). My biggest worry was to not get too psyched by the warm up.

The qualification went alright for me, except on the last problem, because you had to bright across two walls and reach to the top on the other side. Unfortunately my legs where almost too short and I tried so hard that I pulled a muscle fiber in my hamstrings. At least I got the top and was in the next round. On Sunday, in the semifinal I had to climb with a lot of pain in my leg, but I managed to top one problem and finished 16th. Now I need a lot of therapy to be fit again for the Rock Master.


Sunday, 27 June 2010

4th + 5th BWC Moscow and Eindhoven

In the last 2 month I was travelling so much as never before and I experienced many different cultures. I already competed 2008 in the BWC in Moscow and this year everthing was 100 times better, from the hotel over food until the competition venue. However my competition-down-period continued. I have to say in this competition I just did not feel right, tired and not switched and the problems felt hard for me. I finished 25th. In Eindhoven the result crushed even lower, except that I actually felt strong and not tired. I misread one crucial problem and made a silly mistake on the other one. I finished 30th. One thing is for sure I totally underestimated how tiring travelling can be. Especially when you work, climb and revise for uni exams in between. Now uni is over and I am looking forward to spend a weekend at home again and I miss climbing on rock. This week I am trying to relax a bit and prepare myself for the 2nd to last BWC in Sheffield, almost my home competition
.

Sunday, 13 June 2010

Austrian Championship

Straight after Vail there was the Austrian Bouldering Championship in Reith i. A. The weather was amazing, sunshine and really warm temperatures. The competition was perfectly organized. The blocs were on a stage, with good problems and there was a massive tent over the wall that you can climb in any weather. All the climbers which entered Vail where entitled to just come and climb in the final. My performance on that day was not so good, I suffered from bad hay fiver and felt very jetlagged.
The results:
1.Anna Stöhr
2.Katha Sauerwein
3.Kathi Posch
4.Babsy Bacher
5.Babsy Zangerle
6.Ich

Sunday, 6 June 2010

3rd Boulder World Cup Vail

Straight from Vienna the Austrian Bouldering Team (Anna, Katha, Killi, Johanna, Lukas and me) + Stew, Heiko (Coach) and Klaus (Physio) went to America for the 3rd Boulder World Cup in Vail (Colorado). Before we drove to the 2500m high valley of Vail we had a few relaxing days in Boulder, where we went shopping, swimming, training, had some physio treatments and tried to coupe with the jet lack. In Vail the air was thin and the problems long and powerful, not the best combination for me. However I was happy that I qualified for the Semifinal and finished in an alright 16th place.
On the other hand our team suffered from bad luck with Kili hurting his toe a day before the Qualification round and had a battle with his health, Johanna hurted her ankle on the last Qualification problem after an astonishing performance, Katha had a psychological fight after an old injury and Stew could not coupe very well with the height and got a cold a day before the Semifinal round. The results men: Kili 3rd, Stew 10th, Lu 36. Results female: Anna 2nd, Johanna 20th, Katha 24th


Sunday, 30 May 2010

2nd Boulder World Cup Vienna

Vienna World Cup was the second event this year. The qualification round felt pretty good for me, even the warm weather did not distract me. Unfortunately, did I not see a heel hook on the last problem and therefore I had a top too less to make it into the semifinal round. My final position was 27th. Good that there was not too much time to be sad for, because I had to cheer for Stew in the Semifinal and than for the first time ever in Stews World Cup career in the Final. He finished 4th.