Sunday, 7 June 2009

Sauron 8b, Niederthai

On Monday the 1st of June I went back to Sauron, a hidden 8b in the forest of Niederthai. I had some good tries, but my head was not right that day. I felt put off by my cold fingers and the spaced clips, however I found a new sequence on top that seemed to work really well for me and I knew that on a good day I can climb this route. On the weekend Stew and I planned to go to Magic Woods, but due to the bad weather forecast we stayed at home. On Friday I went with Stew to Niederthai that he can try Mordor 8c+/9a and he had 3 amazing attempts (past the crux but always fall off at the last hard move) on it. On Saturday it was my turn and we went to Sauron. The weather forecast was rain in the afternoon so I knew we had to set off not too late. On my first go I felt nervous and my fingers went extremely colt that I thought they fall off any minute. I had to rest in the middle of the route and then climbed the rest. After that go however my fingers went so warm and I had an amazing second go, but I fall of right at the end going for a semi-jug. It was already raining by then. My third go had to be soon, because the rain gone stronger and the jug on top was already getting wet, on top of that it gone cooler and a big foggy cloud came through the hole and top. I felt so psyched and concentrated on this go that nothing of this put me of. I climbed my first 8b, an absolute MASTER PIECE. n Monday the 1st of June I went back to Sauron an 8b hidden

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