Fontainebleau 2013

The end of 2012 was really busy for me. Beside my existing two Pilates and one Yoga course I took on four more Yoga courses which filled all my time in the evenings. However through that I gained a lot of flexibility and body control and I started to recovered better between training sessions. However in February I was happy to have a week off for our yearly trainings camp in Fontainebleau. Unfortunately the weather was really bad, we basically only climbed 1 ½ days outside the rest of the time we spent training indoors. However it was still a great trip. Check out the video Lu made…

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9SgQFhpl1s

Frankenjura 2012

A few days after coming back from Paris, it was time for a serious holiday trip with Stew. After deciding that south France was still to warm we made a wise choice to go to Frankenjura instead. I really love it there. The possibilities are endless and sometimes we spent hours locking at various guidebooks to suss out the climbing area for the next day. The weather and conditions were perfect for climbing, with fairly chilly temps and always a light pries. My greatest achievement in the trip was sending Odins tafel 8b and climbing SMS 8a+ second go. However I tried a few other routes I wouldn’t mind going back to. Beside climbing the mountain biking in Frankenjura was fabulous and I can’t wait to go on some new tours across the forests.

Ötztal-Stuttgart-München-Manchester-Paris

After my „schwarzer Schwann“ I spent less time on the rock and more time in the Boulderroom again. August was pretty busy with work and guiding for the “Ötztal Klettercamp”, which was held for the 4 time in our beautiful valley. It is always a nice experience placing yourself in a different role. Sometimes it feels hard explaining something that’s so obvious and normal for you. On the other hand seeing the improvements on the end of the camp, makes you feel a little proud. 

Following this I went to the “Adidas Rockstars” event in Stuttart. I was exited and pleased to be invited to this amazing event again. This is for sure one of the coolest comps in the season. Qualifikations went well for me and I felt pleased with my performance, even if I felt a bit nervous. The second day did not go so well and I was finding it difficult to get in the real fighting mode. However my big goal was Paris this year, therefore I gathered a lot of ideas what I need to improve to perform better.

Two weeks later was Munich. I managed to get really fit again indoors. However the competition ended up a bit unlucky for my by only coming 21^st but I gave my best and I think I could not done it much better. Opposite to me Stew was super strong and even qualified for the finals and ended up in a little disappointing 6^th position. 

After Munich Stew, my sister Kathi and I went for an extended weekend back to the UK, that I can to some extra training indoors for Paris and to catch up with Stews family. A week later it was time for Paris, I felt prepared and ready to go. My competition went not well at all. Once again I did not get in the right mood and before realizing it the competition was over and I finished 29^th. The rest of our team performed really well and I am happy to be part of it. Babsy especially had the competition of her life coming 9^th in leading and just missing out on the final in bouldering (8^th).

Next stop Frankenjura!!

Schwarzer Schwan 8c

Back in 2009 Markus Haid discovered and climbed the route ‘Schwarzer Schwan’ in Ötztal.

Fast forward to 2012 and the route had built up a reputation as a classic in Tirol. I was in search of a challenge close to home that I could really push myself on and was recommended to give the route a go. I teamed up with my sister, Babsy, in May and we started to project the route. The name of the route started to remind me of the classic film 'Black Swan' as we started to get more involved. We attempted the route in all different conditions, had constant battles with split tips and dreamt of the route on rest days. As we started to get very close, nerves sometimes got the better of us and frustration often set in.

A break in the hot weather and a spontaneous visit to the route in the middle of a thunderstorm allowed Babsy to climb it. She was relieved that the battle was over and her ascent urged me on even more. I visited the route a few more times but to no avail until one day I woke up to misty and rainy morning. I looked out the window and questioned whether the route was dry. My other sister, Kathi, encouraged me to have a go and the all so familiar nerves set in. We walked through the damp forest up the overhanging granite wall and I made a really good attempt, falling on the tricky moves after the crux. I was pleased with my effort and had already accepted defeat for that day but I had a feeling deep down that I should give it just one more attempt. After a serial moment I climbed the ‘Schwarzer Schwan’ and the feeling of relief and happiness were indescribable.

Ötztal Video

The new Ötztal Image video is finished. Good job Hannes Mair