PARIS

On Tuesday we finally set off for our trip to Paris. On Wednesday it was time for the qualification rounds of male and female bouldering. Tue do the high number of competitors the groups were split into two. All the girls from the austrian team were in the same group ecept my sister Babsy, she had to start in the other group. The problems felt quite basic and I climbed all blocs (5) in 6 tries and finished 2nd in my group. For the girls the semi-final continued on Saturday therefore we had a two days rest, what I used for sight-seeing around Paris. I felt less nervous for the semis and was psyched to do well, but somehow I not seemed to get into the usuall fighting mode. I just managed to top one problem and fall of two other problems on the last move. The probelms were not mega hard but I just could not give everything on them. I finished 19 th and was dissapointed but on the other hand I also felt pleased to know that this was not my best effort and I could to better.

11 days in England

From the 18 th to the 29 th of September Stew and I went back to England to do some training for the European Championship. Saturday we went to the British Team Training. It felt strange to be put back into a Comp situatuion, but on the other side it was very useful. On Sunday we decided to have a easy cimbing day and we went to Stanage Trad climbing-the first time ever in my life. I totally enjoyed it and I was less scared than I expected.Monday we went to Manchester wall and did a competition based training, were we tried to flash as many prblems as possible. Tuesday was a rest day with a light run. On Wednesday we went route climbing to Rubicon. I tried lots of different hard routes and come really close to an 8a but my tips gone really bad and I had to leave the decent. On Thursday we went for an other competition training to the Climbing works in Sheffield where we met lots of friends and had a massive session. Friday was another rest day with a relaxing Yoga session. Than on Satuday I was ready for an other training day but this time without Stew because he had a cold. I went to Stockport climbing wall a ferly new place in Manchester where i upsolved another competition training. Sunday was a beautiful day and we went route climbing to cheedale. I warmed up on some classics and then got stuck on a 8a that which felt very powerful on tiny crimps and small foothold. On my 4 th try I was so close, climbed already the hard sequences but then messed up the last harder move.

I really enjoyed the trip and it felt nice to switch off from working life back home. i especially liked the compination of having a indoor training session followed by an outdoor climbing day. I think i feel ready for Paris now.

Dynamischer Exorxist 8a+

Today I climbed "Dynamischer Exorcist 8a+" in Astlehn (Oetztal). It felt quite hard for me to do it because their is no flow in the route. There are always hard sequences, where a lot of body tension and control is needed, separated by semi good rests. The first bit is quite pumpy than comes a goodish rest followed by a boulder problem and to finish it off it goes into technical-vertical climbing on the end and that all on 18 meter. I was pleased that i climbed it after just a few goes.

Zillertal

On the weekend Stew and I were in Zillertal- finally getting on some boulders again. First stop was Magic places. Conditions were quite bad (way too hot) so we were just warming up on some easy blocs. I climbed Big Spender 7b and then we moved on to an area called Weer. There the boulders were hard with a high quality rock. I managed to climb a boulder called Dr. Green Dump 7c (very technical) and a 7b. On the second day we went to Zillergrund. Conditions were even worse than on Saturday and I just climbed a few easier problems and did not climb anything hard but on the end of the day the skin was still trashed.

Last week....

This week was quite a good week. On wed. I climbed “Nix fuer schwache 7c” in Noesslach und on Saturday we went to Piburg and I climbed “Nostalgie 8a” 2nd go. I was well pleased because this route is very pumpy. After I tried “Klettersteig 7c+” but that was defiantly too pumpy after Nostalgie. On Sunday Stew and I had an easy start and climbed good warm up routes in Noesslach. After that we went to Astlehn and I had a few goes on “Dynamischer Exorcist 8a+” but that was not my day. I had troubles to concentrate and finally just had one useful try… but not long and I will climb it.

Oetztal Climbing Team in Arco

Last weekend the Oetztal climbing team (Babsy, Heiko, Lu, Elli, Tai, Stew and I) went to Arco. It was warm but not boiling. On Friday after work (my last working day in the Aqua Dome) we drove down and climbed a few easy routes in Massone. On Saturday after a nice breakfast in Arco and a bit of shopping we went to Massone. It was an awesome day I did some good warm ups and then spent a few goes on Red Rocks 8a but I did not climb it this day. Next morning we went to a new crag in Arco. We had no topo and just went on the things that looked good to us. I was so often pumped and on the end of the day I was felt really tired on my forearms.

Last weeks update

Time is going fast and my last update is already some time ago. In the last few weeks I was climbing lots and was already able to onsight a 7c in Nassereith called “Venus”. I also found a new project to try in Niederthai, it’s a ~20m long, power endurance, 8b on a steep wall with round holds and a few bouldery moves. On the weekend we planned a trip to Zillertal, hopefully the weather is not letting us down….